Pakistan is a land of varied and unique landscape. While high
mountains ranages dominate its North, series of low mountain ranges of Suleman,
Pub, Kirthar and Makran extend from North to Southwest and South in a bone like
manner. These low ranges dominate the plains and deserts to East and warm and
captivating beaches of the Arabian sea to the South. It is, however, Northern
Areas of Pakistan which is endowed with most geographical features in the
world. It is here that three great, lofty and spectacular mountain renages,
Karakoram, Hindukush and Himalayas meet. In an area of about 500 kms in width
and 350 kms in deph, is found the most dense collection of some of highest and
precipitous peaks in the world, boasting more than 700 peaks above 6000 meters,
and more than 160 peaks above 7000 meters. These include five out of the total
fourteen above eight thousand meters high peaks on earth, namely the second
highest rock pyramid – the K2 (8611-M), the killer mountain Nanga Parbat
(8125-M), the Hidden Peak Gasherbrum-I (8068-M), the Broad Peak (8051-M), and
the Gasherbrum-II (8035-M). This enormous mountain wealth makes Pakistan an
important mountain country offering great opportunities for mountaineering and
mountain related adventure activities. The area is aptly called a paradise for
mountaineers, adventure seekers and nature lovers. The compelling charm of
these high, challenging , end less sea of rugged rock and ice pinnacles lure
large number of climbers, trekkers, adventure seekers and nature lovers from
all over the world to the Northern Areas of Pakistan, each year.
K2 (8611m)
Karakoram
in Turkish means “Black Rubble”. In 1856 a British officer, Capt. Montgomery, urveyed
a number of peaks in the Baltoro region of the Karakoram from a distance of
about 200km. He noted a cluster of high peaks and named them K1, K2, K3 upto
K37 using the prefix “K” from Karakoram.
In 1861 the area was further
surveyed by Col. Godwin Austin who recognizedK2 as the highest peak of the range and measured it to be 8619m—only three meters more than its official height (1988) of 8616m. Its local name is Chogori, which means Great Mountain.
Thus, K2, the second highest mountain in the world towers majestically above Concordia with the sweeping Godwin Austin Glacier offering an ice highway towards it. It was first climbed by Italians in 1954. The route to K2 goes through the Baltoro region of Baltistan. There are several high peaks which rise from the world’s largest temperate zone glacier. Only the highest or more prominent peaks have been named or climbed. An incredible nineteen of these peaks tower over 7600m while four of them are 8000ers.
Karakoram
in Turkish means “Black Rubble”. In 1856 a British officer, Capt. Montgomery, urveyed
a number of peaks in the Baltoro region of the Karakoram from a distance of
about 200km. He noted a cluster of high peaks and named them K1, K2, K3 upto
K37 using the prefix “K” from Karakoram.
In 1861 the area was further
surveyed by Col. Godwin Austin who recognizedK2 as the highest peak of the range and measured it to be 8619m—only three meters more than its official height (1988) of 8616m. Its local name is Chogori, which means Great Mountain.
Thus, K2, the second highest mountain in the world towers majestically above Concordia with the sweeping Godwin Austin Glacier offering an ice highway towards it. It was first climbed by Italians in 1954. The route to K2 goes through the Baltoro region of Baltistan. There are several high peaks which rise from the world’s largest temperate zone glacier. Only the highest or more prominent peaks have been named or climbed. An incredible nineteen of these peaks tower over 7600m while four of them are 8000ers.
Facts
I
T I N E R A R Y
Day 1
Arrival
Islamabad (Hotel).
Day 2
Islamabad: Welcome
reception at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 3
Skardu/Chilas: Fly
to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive to Chilas (480 km).
Day 4
Chilas/Skardu: Day
free at Skardu. If your are driving, complete road journey (07–08 hrs) to
Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Day 5
Askole
(3000m):By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs).
Day 6-12
Trek
to K2 Base Camp.
Day13-77
66
days for acclimatization and climbing.
Day78-81
Trek
back to Hushe via Gondogoro La and drive back to Skardu.
Day
82
Fly/Drive
to Islamabad, En route visit Taxila. (Hotel)
Day
83
Islamabad: Leisure
day at Islamabad. In case of driving, complete rod journey from Chilas to
Islamabad.
Day
84
Fly
Out: Transfer to airport for your return flight home.
Services Included:
Liaison
with ministry of tourism in Islamabad for climbing permit process, providing
measurements of the appointed Liaison
officer for his prescribed kit.
Process
of import/export permit from ministry of tourism.
Kitchen
equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear.
I
T I N E R A R Y
Day 1
Arrival
Islamabad (Hotel).
Day 2
Islamabad: Welcome
reception at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
Day 3
Skardu/Chilas: Fly
to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive to Chilas (480 km).
Day 4
Chilas/Skardu: Day
free at Skardu. If your are driving, complete road journey (07–08 hrs) to
Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
Day 5
Askole
(3000m):By jeeps drive to Askole (6-7 hrs).
Day 6-12
Trek
to K2 Base Camp.
Day13-77
66
days for acclimatization and climbing.
Day78-81
Trek
back to Hushe via Gondogoro La and drive back to Skardu.
Day
82
Fly/Drive
to Islamabad, En route visit Taxila. (Hotel)
Day
83
Islamabad: Leisure
day at Islamabad. In case of driving, complete rod journey from Chilas to
Islamabad.
Day
84
Fly
Out: Transfer to airport for your return flight home.
Process
of import/export permit from ministry of tourism.
Nanga Parbat (8126m)
Overview
Nanga Parbat,
Sanskrit for “Naked Mountain” is so named because some of its slopes are so steep that they
are bereft of vegetation and snow. According to the local old legend, Nanga
Parbat is also called Diamir, which means abode of fairies. It is believed that
the Queen of fairies lives there in a castle made of solidice crystal is
guarded by gigantic snow serpents and frogs. The earlier disasters in climbing
this mountain are attributed to the displeasure of fairies. Nanga Parbat is not
a single peak but consists of 20km long series of peaks and ridges culminating
in an ice crest of (8125m). Its South Face known as Rupal Face is (5000m) high,
while the North or Raikot Face plunging over (7000m) from the summit to the
Indus forms one of the world’s deepest gorge. This expedition takes us to the
West Side, which is known as Diamir Face.
Nanga Parbat is
the second highest mountain of Pakistan and ninth highest in the world. It is
not part of the Karakoram as it is the western extremity of the mighty
Himalaya. It is separated from the Karakoram by the mighty Indus River. Since
the first disastrous British expedition led by A. F. Mummery in 1895,
mountaineers have tried to ascend its summit through different routes but few
lucky ones have succeeded. In 1934 four German climbers and six porters
perished in a storm. In 1937 disaster 18 Sherpas and 12 climberswere
buried alive by avalanche that covered their camp. In fact Nanga Parbat has
claimed more lives than any other 8000er relative to the number of attempts,
hence the frightening nickname of Killer Mountain. It was first climbed in 1953
by a joint Austrian – German Expedition. Hermann Buhl made the final ascent in
a tortuous 41 hours solo ordeal without oxygen. Italian mountaineer Reinhold
Messner climbed the south face (Rupal Face) with his brother Gunther in 1970,
descending by the Diamir face, where Gunther lost his life.
Facts
Duration: 50Days
Altitude: 8,126m
Zone:
Permitted
Trip
Nature: Hard Adventure
Level:
Professional
Best Time:
May - September
I
T I N E R A R Y
|
|
Day 1
|
Arrival
Islamabad (Hotel).
|
Day 2
|
Briefing
at the Ministry of Tourism.
|
Day 3
|
Drive
by coach to Chilas (480km) on Karakoram Highway.
|
Day
4-05
|
Climbing
|
Day
6-45
|
Climbing
|
Day46-47
|
Trek
down.
|
Day
48
|
Drive
on KKH to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
|
Day
49
|
Farewell
meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
|
Day
50
|
Transfer to
airport for your return homebound flight.
|
Gasherbrum-I (8068-M),
Karakoram, Pakistan
Contrary
to general belief Gasherbrum doesn't mean "shining wall". The name
comes from the Balti words rgasha, which means beautiful and brum which means
mountain. There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum I, also known as K5 and
Hidden Peak, a name given by William Martin Conway in 1892 in reference to its
extreme remoteness. It is the highest peak among them. It is also the 11th
highest peak in the world and is the second highest in the Karakoram Range. It
is one of the four 8,000m peaks located in a tight cluster on the upper reaches
of the Baltoro glacier, the main access route to the
mountains which cuts through the center of the Karakoram Range. The Karakoram
is the second tallest mountain range on earth. It lies about a thousand miles
west of Nepal's Himalaya mountain range. The range is bordered by Tajikistan,
China, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and India. It is a condensed cluster of high
peaks with 60 mountains over 6900 meters. Of the world's fourteen highest
mountains, four are located within the Karakoram Range: K2, Gasherbrum I and
II, and Broad Peak. 
Gasherbrum
is a remote group of high peaks in the Karakoram, located at the northeast end
of the 36-mile Baltoro glacier. The group forms a semi-circle around its own
South Gasherbrum Glacier. A French Expedition led by H. De Segogne made first
attempt in 1936, but they could not climb beyond Camp V at a height of 6797
meters. However, in 1958 an American Expedition led by Nich Clinch made the
first ascent of Gasherbrum I. Pete Schoening and Andy Kaufman were first to
reach the summit.
The
peak was also the venue of the world’s first 8,000 meter climb in pure Alpine
Style. This means that the start of the climb is done from the bottom of the
mountain and all gears are carried on the way, if any bivouacs, they will be
found on the way. No route preparation is done. Supplemental oxygen is not
used. Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler achieved this unprecedented feat in
August, 1975. On 8 August 1975, they began their climb. They had no rope with
them, no supplemental oxygen, just personal climbing gears. On August 10th they
summitted the peak and thus introduced pure Alpine style climbing to the
Karokaram.
Gasherbrum
I is one to the "least popular" of the 8000 meter peaks. It still has
less than 200 ascents and is in tenth spot on the ascent-list for the 8000
meter peaks. It is also one of the peaks with least deaths, but this probably
has to do with the fact that only really experienced mountaineers try a peak as
difficult at Gasherbrum I.
The
most common way to climb the peak is to attack on the western side and all
routes here leads to "The Japanese Couloir", which is located on top
of the north-west face. The first ascent (1958) was made via Spur Peak and then
via the long south east ridge to the summit.
Facts
Duration: 50 Days
Altitude:
Min 610m - Max 5,098m
Zone:
Open
Trip
Nature: Hard Adventure
Level:
Professional
Best Time: May - September
I
T I N E R A R Y
|
|
Day 1
|
Arrival
Islamabad (Hotel).
|
Day 2
|
Briefing
at the Ministry of Tourism.
|
Day 3
|
Drive
by coach to Chilas (480km) on Karakoram Highway.
|
Day
4-05
|
Climbing
|
Day
6-45
|
Climbing
|
Day46-47
|
Trek
Down
|
Day
48
|
Drive
on KKH to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
|
Day
49
|
Farewell
meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
|
Day
50
|
Transfer to
airport for your return homebound flight.
|
Gasherbrum-II (8035-M)
Range: Karakoram
Altitude: 8035m
Zone: Permitted
Duration:
52 Days
Best Time: Mid May - End August
Gasherbrum
in local language means "Shining Wall". There are six peaks in the
cluster Gasherbrum: Gasherbrum 2 (8035 meters/26,361ft), with a summit pyramid
is the second highest peak among the Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum 2 (also known
as K4) is the 13th highest mountain on Earth, located in the upper Baltoro
region bordering China and the north face assessable from China. Gasherbrum 2
is the third highest peak of the Gasherbrum massif, located in the Karakoram
Range of the Himalaya.Climbers have described it as an impressive but achievable peak, much like Cho Oyu but with a gradual walk up the Baltoro Glacier to its BC that is said to be the best trek in the world. Its climb provides not too hard and a perfect mountaineering experience for Himalaya beginners. G2 stands in the majestic neighborhood of Karakoram giants
like
and K2 in a close line-up of world's highest peaks in the amphitheater of
Concordia that has no parallel in the world. In 1889-1929 an international
expedition headed by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth studied possible ways to the top
of the Gasherbrum 2 and got to 6250m on the south flank. On July 8, 1956
the first ascent via the southwest spur was made by an Austrian expedition
headed by F. Moravec. Fritz Moravec along with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart
from a bivouac at 7700m via the east spur to the summit on 7th.The snowy of the South West Ridge presents considerable difficulties on ice and snow mixed faces ridges once you are above the most complex glacial plateau after negotiating the heavily crevassed Gasherbrum Glacier. It is a steep way up at some sections as we continue climbing on a series of ridges and reach a platform where camp 2 is generally set up around 6400m. From here we climb a couple of icy pitches and then up the ... face going steeper before you reach the site of C3 at 7490m. After three easy pitches from there get to a diagonal way across the face from where a traverse leads to the base of the summit pyramid on the East Ridge. The climb from there is straight on a wide-open snowy face with glorious surroundings but a few steep sections before you reach the narrow summit ridge.
Facts
Duration:
52 Days
Altitude: 8,035m
Zone:
Permitted
Trip Nature:
Hard Adventure
Level:
Professional
Best Time: May - September
I T I N E R A R Y
|
|
Day 1
|
Arrival Islamabad (Hotel).
|
Day 2
|
Briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.
|
Day 3
|
Fly to Skardu. In case of cancellation of flight drive to
Chilas (480 km).
|
Day 4
|
Chilas/Sikardu. Day free at Skardu. If
you are driving, complete road journey (07-08 hrs) to Skardu (275 km)
En-route have good views of Nanga Parbat (8125m).
|
Day 5
|
Askole (3000m) By jeeps drive to
Askole (6-7 hrs)
|
Day6-13
|
Trek to G-II Base Camp.
|
Day 14-43
|
30 days for acclimatization and climbing.
|
Day 44-49
|
Trek back to Askole or Hushe via Gondogoro La and
|
Day 50
|
Fly to Islamabad or Drive.
|
Day 50
|
Leisure day at Islamabad. In case of
driving, complete rod journey from Chilas to Islamabad
|
Day 50
|
Islamabad
Farewell meet. Transfer to airport for
your return flight home.
|
Broad Peak (80,51-M)
Broad
Peak is located approximately five miles from K2 along the Baltoro glacier. En
route to base camp for Broad Peak, the twelfth highest mountain in the world,
climbers and trekkers alike can visit the Gasherbrums, the Trangos, K2, and
Chogolisa. On a good day, both Chogolisa and K2 can be seen from the upper
reaches as well as from base camp of this extraordinary mountain.It's name was
originally set as K3, as in the third mountain measured in the Karakoram range,
right after the famed K2. But when on-lookers later viewed the peak in closer
detail, they discovered that its summit was over a mile long and hence the name
"Broad Peak."
Facts
Duration:
50 Days
Altitude:
8,051m
Zone:
Permitted
Trip
Nature: Hard Adventure
Level:
Professional
Best Time: May
- September
I
T I N E R A R Y
|
|
Day 1
|
Arrival
Islamabad (Hotel).
|
Day 2
|
Briefing
at the Ministry of Tourism.
|
Day 3
|
Drive
by coach to Chilas (480km) on Karakoram Highway.
|
Day
4-05
|
Climbing
|
Day
6-45
|
Climbing
|
Day46-47
|
Trek
Down.
|
Day
48
|
Drive
on KKH to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
|
Day
49
|
Farewell
meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan.
|
Day
50
|
Transfer
to airport for your return homebound flight.
|
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